Drive to the Mauna Kea Summit

Peaking at an elevation of 13,796 ft MSL, you can see the majestic Mauna Kea volcano from almost any point on the Big Island of Hawaii. Often in the winter, Mauna Kea will receive snow fall. The sight of a snow-capped volcano in the backdrop as you lounge on a sunny Kohala beach is truly spectacular. My favorite view is from the higher elevations of Waimea, with its green pastures and rolling hills in the foreground, and towering volcano in the background.

Although it is in plain sight, reaching is summit is not an easy task. The easiest way is to take the guided summit tour. Transportation is conveniently provided along with insightful narrative and telescopes for gazing through the clear cold sky to the heavens above.

If you want to drive there on your own, more than likely you are renting a car and that is a disqualifier. You will be able to reach the Onizuka Visitor’s Center at 9,000 feet, but no further. That is because from here the road is a windy, rough, 4x4-only dirt road, and regular rental vehicles are prohibited (even if you rent an SUV). I mention regular rental vehicles - that is because there is one company on the island that rents *special* vehicles for you to traverse the more rugged portions of the island.

Harper Truck Rentals offers 4WD vehicles that can take you to the top of Mauna Kea, as well as into the Waipio Vallley, and other remote 4x4-only destinations on the island. On this particular occasion, we rented a Toyota 4Runner from Harper and drove the saddle road from Hilo. We turned north at the Mauna Kea Access Road (near the 28-mile marker) and drove 6 miles to the Onizuka Visitor's Center. You can reach the visitor's center in any vehicle, however you cannot continue to the summit from here without 4WD. It is a good idea to rest at the visitor's center for about 30 minutes to help acclimate yourself to this high altitude.

We stopped to tour the visitor's center and then continued on up the windy, loose-gravel road to the summit. The month was December and there was fresh snow on the ground, so we drove slowly and with caution. The narrow road winds its way to the top and we could see expansive views of the island below as well as snow and ice that had accumulated on the cinder cone. We finally reached the end of the road. Up here, some of the world's most powerful and important telescopes are operated by many international organizations. Canted off to the side is the tall cinder cone marking the actual Pu'u Wekiu summit of Mauna Kea. Eager to conquer this point, we departed the vehicle and trudged across the ice and snow towards the peak. If you come this far, make sure you dress warmly! Most visitors to Hawaii do not pack for 30-degree, icy weather, but luckily we were dressed for the occasion - jackets, warm layers, and gloves.

As we ascended this snow-capped peak, we hastened our pace in excitement, and forgetting about the above-10,000 foot altitude, out breathing became a little bit too heavy. Consequently, by the time we reached the peak, we felt a shortness of breath and some light-headedness. Any time a human is above 10,000 feet, there is cause for concern as the oxygen content here is significantly lower than at sea level. With less oxygen being inhaled, opportunities for hypoxia and even edema do exist. I quickly recognized these were all symptoms of hypoxia and that I needed to calm down and sit down - or else... So we took a lot of photos (which I subsequently lost and cannot find to this day) and returned to the truck to sit for a moment as I gathered my breath. Of course, we scooped up snow balls along the way and enjoyed the very unusual Hawaii scene.

There is one other way to reach the summit - although it is a physical challenge. That is to hike from the visitor's center to the summit. That means ascending more than four thousand feet in elevation. The hike is a demanding 12 miles, round trip, and will take most or all of the day to accomplish. Details and maps are available at the visitor's center. Someday I plan to do this hike - along with the very rigorous Mauna Loa summit hike. In the meantime, I need to search my house to find those missing photos of the Mauna Kea summit.

Descending back down on the windy gravel road is a challenge. The grade is steep and the road narrow. This is where the tough 4x4 sure comes in handy. Make sure you do not ride the brakes going down or you could end up with a bad situation. If you can, shift to a lower gear, or engage a downhill assist mode (Toyota truck feature). Fog can swoop in at any time on this road, making it even more dangerous than it already is.

Volcano Hike - Halini Pali Trail

It was several years ago that we hiked the Halini Pali Trail in the Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. This trail has two separate paths, one is about 3.5 miles each way down the slope and the other is 7.5 miles each way down to the ocean. Having done the short trail before, we chose to do the long trail this time. This was several years ago, before the invention of the camelbak and back when things like hydration were not of significant concern... but it should have been!

The trail starts off up at altitude. We parked our car on the Halini Pali Road and started our hike across an old lava flow. Here, a forest has come to life out of the devastating dried lava. As you hike you can see nature making a come back with underbrush, ferns and trees growing out of the harsh lava desert. The trail then leads to the down-sloping side of the volcano - at the edge you can see the magnificent view of the descending slope and ocean below. You can also see the expansive area that you will be hiking - across the wide open lava fields with no shade or cover.

We did this hike inthe middle of the summer and it was certainly hot that day! The trail descends over 2,000 feet to the floor of the Pali and then on to the coast. At this point we started the switch-back trail descending over primarily loose sand and small lava rocks. Footing was a problem as we each slid and fell several times on the descent, even though we moved slowly. An eerie surface-of-the-moon-like setting was waiting for us at the bottom of the slope.

We did not bring a lot with us - a small backpack with only one large jug of water and our snorkeling gear. We had read that there was a small protected inlet at the end of the hike and that you could swim and even snorkel there. With the hot sun beating down on us and exerting ourselves on the hike, we were draining our water supply. Once we reached the bottom of the Pali, the hike winds its way around the dried lava fields, over uneven terrain, with only small piles of lava rocks to mark the trail.

Eventually, the undulating terrain led us to the coast and we could see what seemed like an oasis surrounded by a sea of lava. There were swaying palm trees and green shrubbery surrounding a small inlet. The water was bright blue and very inviting in the heat of this day. We finally reached the cove and donned out snorkeling gear. The lava flow here had created a tide pool - protected from the crashing waves of the ocean by a natural wall of lava rocks, allowing us to snorkel in this calm protected area. The sea life was nice - especially in a place so austere. There wasn't another soul here, and we cherished the solitude that the Big Island can provide.

As we headed back the sea water and activity, along with the higher noon sun caused what seemed like an unquenchable thirst, so we continued to drain the lone water jug that we had brought - now it was down to less than a quarter capacity. I remember having reservations about our dwindling water supply, but we had no where to go but hike back. So we started the long arduous hike back across the rough lava field and then this time UP the slippery switchback trail. Not too far up the ascent, we completely ran out of water. I remember thinking about the 5+ miles to go and how hot it was. It seemed like the minute we ran out of water, the sun turned about ten degrees hotter!

As we continued hiking up, I remember my body slowly draining of energy and slowly being overcome by the heat. All I could think about was water and how thirsty I was and how my lips and throat were getting parched. Now, we had to rest every so often due to the lack of water. The exertion was tough without any water intake. I kept thinking how stupid it was to not bring any more water. Somehow we made it all the way up and across the forested trail back to the car. Even here though, we had no water stored in the car - but we remembered the water fountain at the Thurston Lava Tube. So we drove expeditiously there and all I can remember is grabbing the handle of that water fountain and letting the ice-cold water flow down my dry throat. Each ounce of water that I swallowed brought renewed energy and comfort to me!

Ever since that day, I always pack a lot of water on my hikes and outdoor excursions. I have since then invested in an assortment of hydration gear including the wonderful Camelbak Unbottle, numerous nalgene bottles, and for contingencies, a MiniWorks water purifier. I wanted to recount my story so that others may learn from our mistakes - as well as talk about a wonderful not-so-frequented hike in the national park.

If you do this hike, make sure you bring plenty of water. I would recommend at least one gallon of water per person. Additionally, make sure you bring sunscreen and a hat to protect from the sun. Wear appropriate clothing for the hike - see our volcano hiking tips for more information. Don't forget your snorkeling gear and a camera!

Snorkeling at Leleiwi Beach (Hilo)

Who says the diving in Hilo isn't good? I recently went back to Leleiwi Beach Park, where I have dived dozens and dozens of times. I still enjoy it each time - there is abundant coral and fish life, and the main attraction the 10-30 turtles that you will see each dive. I'll make this post more of a photo essay:

The water conditions were exceptional this dive - great visibility, especially for Hilo. I saw more fish on this dive than I have in the past at Leleiwi; in fact, the water was teeming with colorful tropical fish! The coral was colorful, diverse, and lush. The water entry was a little tricky with high tide and a surging surface state - we simply timed our entry in between sets and made it fine.

I have seen more than thirty turtles on a dive here at Leleiwi. I enjoy observing their impressive presence underwater; some of the adult turtles here are without a doubt older than I am. I see many of the turtles resting gently on the reef, in caves and holes between the coral, and in sandy clearings underwater. Some of the younger adolescent turtles are happily swimming about, curious of me as I am of them.

If you are lucky you will see a turtle cleaning station where fish help the green sea turtle by cleaning his shell. This turtle happened to pose ever so patiently for me to steady my camera and take the shot!

Hiking the Waipio Valley

I had not hiked the Waipio Valley in over a decade - and I had a never ending burning desire to hike in this remote and austere valley. I read about some of the magestic waterfalls that lay hidden deep in the valley - only to be seen by adventurous hikers. I zeroed my sights in on the famous Hiilawe Falls - a 1400 foot high waterfall at the back side of the Waipio. I knew that hiking up to the waterfall would be a challenge.

I studied a 1:24,000 topo map of the valley and even entered a few coordinates (including the location of the falls) into my GPS for situational awareness. We loaded up on water and my camera and began our hike down the narrow switch-back road from the Waipio Valley Lookout to the valley floor below. The hike down provided a wide panoramic view of the Waipio Valley - as you hiked further and further down the road, you saw a more expansive view of the valley, the farm lands beneath, the black sand beach at the mouth of the valley, and the steep trail scaling the north cliff face leading you over to the next valley, the Waimanu Valley. We spotted several hawks flying overhead, welcoming us to the valley.

You could see small houses and primitive shelters used for farming taro in the fields below. A river winds its way through the middle of the valley - probably fueled by water from the waterfalls. Once we got to the bottom of the valley, we turned left (west) and followed a rough road towards the back end of the valley. Towering fruit trees line the road and the plant life was vibrantly alive - you could smell the freshness and fertility in the air. As the road neared its end, we caught glimpses of Hiilawe Falls in the background and we knew the general direction we needed to go. At this point we wandered down a path (left turn from the road) and ended up passing by several houses. We continued and the trail for the most part ended, but by using the GPS we knew to continue. This led us through a set of taro fields - which are much like rice paddies, water-soaked fields blocked in by man-made walls. We traversed the fields and ended paralleling a stream in the forest.

Then the trail ended abruptly - in front of us was deep water at a bend in the river and on our left and right high, steep rocky canyon walls. We were at a bottle neck with nowhere to go but wade through deep water - my GPS said we were only 0.25 miles from the falls! A mere quarter mile from our goal and it looked unpassable - unless we waded through this deep water with our packs on and camera equipment to get wet, we wouldn't get to the falls.

We decided to turn back and hike down to the black sand beach and enjoy the sights there, a little deflated, at least we saw the majestic Hiilawe Falls. At the beach we saw the mighty Pacific Ocean waves crashing on the shore. Right here in the shade of the coniforous trees, wild horses grazed in the grass, oblivious to us. The raw natural beauty of the Waipio is incredible!

Snorkeling at Pawai Bay

I had heard about Pawai Bay while searching the internet for snorkeling locations in Kona. I have snorkeled most of the Big Island and am constantly searching for new places to snorkel and SCUBA dive. I read that charter boats take snorkelers to Pawai Bay and decided I wanted to go and check it out. I found out that although this bay is somewhat secluded you can access it by a trail leading from the north end of the Old Kona Airport Beach Park. Apparently, Pawai Bay is located about two coves to the north of the Old Kona Airport. However, I wanted to SCUBA dive at Pawai - so hiking the trail with all my gear was out of the question.

So I came up with the idea of Kayaking to Pawai Bay from Kailua Bay. At first I thought that this might be overly ambitous, but after looking at my GPS and a few maps, I saw that it would be about a 1.5 mile kayak trip (each way). By taking a kayak, we could stow all of our dive gear on board and also enjoy the journey.

So a couple of friends and I started the trip - we paddled right off of the beach at the King Kamehameha Hotel in Kailua-Kona. Although, there were moderate swells in the ocean, it took us less than one hour to get beyond the Old Airport Beach Park. Then we realized that the waves were crashing on the lava rocks at the shore and we would need to be very careful as we neared shore. Our original plan was to anchor the boat - dropping anchor onto the sandy bottom (and avoid damaging any corals). We brought our anchor with us and as I swam in the water searching for a good place to anchor, I spotted the buoy that the tour boats use to moor and we tied up the this buoy. It was a great find - we were only about 25 yards from shore and right over the reef that we could see through the clear waters below. As we prepared to enter the water, we saw a lone snorkeler pass by our kayaks - she must have come from shore where you can enter the water at the small sandy beach at the edge of the cove.

We dropped in and two of us SCUBA dived as the third person snorkeled. The reef here was expansive, vibrantly alive, and consumed by colorful corals. As I descended on my dive, I could see many large schools of fish in and around us and the reef. There were large schools of curious Goat Fish meandering near us and pockets of Squirrel Fish bobbing with their large eyes protruding. The top of the reef was in about 20-25 feet of water and it descended to beyond 65 feet deep. The water was a warm 78 degrees and about 70 feet of visibility - all in all excellent conditions! This coral reef really reminded me of the dense reef at Captain Cook, one of my favorites on the Island. As we got back in the kayaks and secured our gear, one of my buddies got sea sick because the swells had increased and the chop was getting rough. So we decided to paddle back to Kailua Bay. We only dived one small portion of the reef here at Pawai Bay - and I look forward to coming back to take a look at the rest of it.

Nice Beaches Near Kailua-Kona

The many tourists that stay in the glitzy Kohala Resorts (such as the Mauna Lani, Waikoloa, Mauna Kea, etc.) will probably miss out on some really nice beaches right at the edge of the town of Kailua-Kona. Several of our favorite beaches are located right on Ali'i Drive, at the southern edge of Kailua-Kona. Magic Sands Beach (Laa Loa Beach) and Kahalu'u Beach Park are two must-visit beaches.

Magic Sands Beach Park is a small strip of white sand with sparkling waters. The main attraction here are the fantastic waves that make for some great body-boarding or body-surfing. The waves can be severe in the winter, so keep an eye out for the rogue wave that can wreck havoc! This beach is usually packed with beach goers and spectators watching the wave-riders.

Kahalu'u Beach Park is another great beach, located just south of Magic Sands. The main attraction here is not for what's on land, but for the wonderful under-sea life. You have the unique opportunity to see and swim with the Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle here at Kahaluu. Although an endangered species, you can see them basking in the sun on the beach and swimming in the shallow waters here. Make sure you bring your snorkel gear - you will enjoy the abundance of tropical fish swimming nearby as well as the vibrant coral reef. The waters are normally quite calm - this is a perfect beach for the whole family.