Volcano Hike - Halini Pali Trail

It was several years ago that we hiked the Halini Pali Trail in the Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. This trail has two separate paths, one is about 3.5 miles each way down the slope and the other is 7.5 miles each way down to the ocean. Having done the short trail before, we chose to do the long trail this time. This was several years ago, before the invention of the camelbak and back when things like hydration were not of significant concern... but it should have been!

The trail starts off up at altitude. We parked our car on the Halini Pali Road and started our hike across an old lava flow. Here, a forest has come to life out of the devastating dried lava. As you hike you can see nature making a come back with underbrush, ferns and trees growing out of the harsh lava desert. The trail then leads to the down-sloping side of the volcano - at the edge you can see the magnificent view of the descending slope and ocean below. You can also see the expansive area that you will be hiking - across the wide open lava fields with no shade or cover.

We did this hike inthe middle of the summer and it was certainly hot that day! The trail descends over 2,000 feet to the floor of the Pali and then on to the coast. At this point we started the switch-back trail descending over primarily loose sand and small lava rocks. Footing was a problem as we each slid and fell several times on the descent, even though we moved slowly. An eerie surface-of-the-moon-like setting was waiting for us at the bottom of the slope.

We did not bring a lot with us - a small backpack with only one large jug of water and our snorkeling gear. We had read that there was a small protected inlet at the end of the hike and that you could swim and even snorkel there. With the hot sun beating down on us and exerting ourselves on the hike, we were draining our water supply. Once we reached the bottom of the Pali, the hike winds its way around the dried lava fields, over uneven terrain, with only small piles of lava rocks to mark the trail.

Eventually, the undulating terrain led us to the coast and we could see what seemed like an oasis surrounded by a sea of lava. There were swaying palm trees and green shrubbery surrounding a small inlet. The water was bright blue and very inviting in the heat of this day. We finally reached the cove and donned out snorkeling gear. The lava flow here had created a tide pool - protected from the crashing waves of the ocean by a natural wall of lava rocks, allowing us to snorkel in this calm protected area. The sea life was nice - especially in a place so austere. There wasn't another soul here, and we cherished the solitude that the Big Island can provide.

As we headed back the sea water and activity, along with the higher noon sun caused what seemed like an unquenchable thirst, so we continued to drain the lone water jug that we had brought - now it was down to less than a quarter capacity. I remember having reservations about our dwindling water supply, but we had no where to go but hike back. So we started the long arduous hike back across the rough lava field and then this time UP the slippery switchback trail. Not too far up the ascent, we completely ran out of water. I remember thinking about the 5+ miles to go and how hot it was. It seemed like the minute we ran out of water, the sun turned about ten degrees hotter!

As we continued hiking up, I remember my body slowly draining of energy and slowly being overcome by the heat. All I could think about was water and how thirsty I was and how my lips and throat were getting parched. Now, we had to rest every so often due to the lack of water. The exertion was tough without any water intake. I kept thinking how stupid it was to not bring any more water. Somehow we made it all the way up and across the forested trail back to the car. Even here though, we had no water stored in the car - but we remembered the water fountain at the Thurston Lava Tube. So we drove expeditiously there and all I can remember is grabbing the handle of that water fountain and letting the ice-cold water flow down my dry throat. Each ounce of water that I swallowed brought renewed energy and comfort to me!

Ever since that day, I always pack a lot of water on my hikes and outdoor excursions. I have since then invested in an assortment of hydration gear including the wonderful Camelbak Unbottle, numerous nalgene bottles, and for contingencies, a MiniWorks water purifier. I wanted to recount my story so that others may learn from our mistakes - as well as talk about a wonderful not-so-frequented hike in the national park.

If you do this hike, make sure you bring plenty of water. I would recommend at least one gallon of water per person. Additionally, make sure you bring sunscreen and a hat to protect from the sun. Wear appropriate clothing for the hike - see our volcano hiking tips for more information. Don't forget your snorkeling gear and a camera!